SHANGHAI "THE PARIS OF ASIA"
The most fascinating of cities
By Freddy Santamaria
I have traveled around the world since the late 50’s, and
Shanghai is one of the more interesting cities in Asia and the world.
It combines the old mystery of the Orient, with the "opium wars", the first foreign settlements in China, and one of the most progressive cities in our modern world.The HuangPu River is the main vector of the city
(similar to the Seine River in Paris), with one big difference; it is much bigger, wider & congested. In 24 hours you can count up to more than 500 boats, cruising up & down the HuangPu, the traffic never stops.Paris has the left (Saint Germain, Saint Michel, Montparnasse) and the right banks (Concorde, Madeleine, the "Haussmanian Boulevards").
In Shanghai you have
"The Bund", with the old foreign settlements and the old Chinese neighborhoods near the river (the left bank), and the right bank with "Pudong", the new city (across the river) with geometrical boulevards, skyscrapers in every corner, (Shanghai people say a new "one" every month), "The Oriental Pearl Tower", etc…******************
View along the Pudong -
the Oriental Pearl Tower, Jinmao Tower, and the Shangri-la
Photo © Jean-patrick Depont
******************
But contrary to Paris, with all the "Seine Bridges", great for a nice stroll on a sunny day, Shanghai
(on the boundaries of the city) has only "Three Bridges" very far apart, and "Four Tunnels" – the main tunnel in the city center being the Yan An Donglu Tunnel. As a result: traffic jams all the time!To deal with these traffic jams,
let me recommend that when you arrive or depart from Shanghai (Hong Qiao or Pudong Airports), take a "Limousine Service" at the airport or ask your hotel for a "pick-up" or transfer.The prices are very cost conscious: (
550 Yuan: Pudong Airport & 400 Yuan: Hong Qiao Airport).The ride with a taxi will be around 400 or 350 Yuan,
so there's very little savings, yet it comes with an inconvenience, the "taxi meter". If you get stock in a traffic jam, the meter never stops, and 98% of the drivers speak poor English or none at all.With the limousine service
(in case of a problem), you can connect with the hotel or your airline (all have mobile phones) and you always have the warranty of the service and a fixed price, "traffic jam" or not.Beyond this advice, let me recommend
the first thing to do in Shanghai is to go see the "River" with "The Bund", the site of the old western settlements. Have a stroll on the promenade – if you are an early riser, you can see all the locals doing their gymnastics (6:00 to 8:00 AM) before a day’s work and if you feel like it, you can joint them.Along "The Bund" you can see the remaining buildings of the old settlements:
-
"The China Pacific Insurance Company" (1916)- "The Bangkok Bank" (1907)
[former China Merchants Bank]
- "The Shanghai Pudong Development Bank" (1923) [Former the Hong Kong & Shanghai Banking Corporation]
- "Shanghai Customs House" (1927)
- "China Foreign Exchange Trade Center" (1910)
[Outer walls with white ceramic tiles, city first tile-faced edifice]
- "China Merchants Bank" (1924)
- "AIA Building" (1921)
[originally the Taiwan Bank]
- "Bank of China" (1936)
- "Industrial & Commercial Bank of China" (1924)
- "Foreign Trade Building" (1920)
[its style is English Renaissance]
- "Everbright Bank of China" (1914)
[unique eclectic look]
- "Wai Bai Du Bridge" (1907)
[Shanghai's most famous steel bridge]
- "Shanghai Mansion" (1934)
[now an hotel with nice views]
- "The Monument to the Peoples' Heroes"
[the only one from 1990]
During the day or in the evening,
you can have a drink, on the top floor terrace of the "Oldest Hotel in Shanghai": "The Peace" (1929)- Built in the Gothic style of the Chicago School.
- First named the Cathay Hotel, the structure became a symbol of the luxury of the Bund.
- It was known in its time as Number One Mansion in the Far East.
With great views of Pudong, The Oriental Pearl Tower and the tallest building (at the moment) of the city: "The Jinmau Tower" with the Grand Hyatt Hotel.
Unfortunately, the rooms are old fashioned and the corridors, elevators & staircases are very narrow and dark, no good lighting.
If you continue
, at the end of "The Bund" (East side) you can cross the steel bridge, the "Wai Bai Du", and have an escape from the tourists flow and visit the district between the Changzhi Road & Daming Road, till you arrive to the "Donghong & Ocean" Hotels.You will see another Shanghai
, the remains of the old "Hutongs" or "narrow alleys" from the 30’s, with a multitude of small shops and living quarters. BUT HURRY! Every year they disappear like dead flowers, to be replaced by new housing developments. So maybe in the next two years, nothing will be left, and it will be a pity you don’t see what was the real Shanghai on the 30’s. Of course don’t expect to see any tourist or "white faces", but you will see something different.Back on "The Bund",
you can take the "Bund Sightseeing Tunnel" to cross to Pudong (646.7 meters long). You arrive to the south of the "Oriental Pearl Tower" (468 meters high) overlooking the river and the two sides of the city. It is the highest in Asia and the third highest in the world.The tower consists of 15 spheres of different sizes at different levels creating an artistic conception of "large and small pearls dropping onto a jade plate". At night, colorful lights glisten and dazzle your eyes.
"Three pieces of advice
:Buy your ticket to the highest sphere and travel down for your visit (you will avoid queues) since every sphere has a different price,
avoid the restaurants unless you are very hungry, and don’t go to visit the tower if is not a clear day as you will see nothing.Since you are next door, you can visit the
"JinMao Tower" the tallest building in Shanghai (at the moment) with 88 stories (340.1 m. high) and an observatory at the top.The highest part of the tower is the address of one of the famous hotels in the city:
"The "Grand Hyatt Shanghai, great location, but not so practical -- two elevators before you arrive to your room, narrow corridors, low ceilings, not so big rooms and from your room you see the city as a "Lilliputian" play ground. And if it is a foggy day, again you don’t see anything.At the top of the hotel you have a nice bar, but is always full and if you want a table with a view you need to queue.
From "The Bund" you can take also the
"Pudong Ferry", every 10, 15 minutes (5 minutes for the crossing) for only 2.50 Yuan, the best way to cross the HuangPu River and an experience not to be missed.Next to the Ferry Terminal on The Bund side, where you have the start of the
"HuangPu River Tours", the must interesting is the one for half day (around 4 hours), which takes you as far as the estuary of the "Yangtze". Forget the "short" or "mini tours" and the "Dinner Cruise Tours" -- they really are tourist traps!On The Bund, at the corner of the Peace Hotel, visit the main shopping street in the city
, "Nanjing Road", and then go west to the "Hua I Hai Road". Don’t forget to visit the "Yuyuan Garden" leading you to the "Old God’s Temple" with the nearby street markets and "Shanghai Old Street"Other tourist places to visit include
:The
"Former site of the First National Congress of the Communist Party of China" and "Dr. Sun Yat Sen Former Residence" (1918-1924) Forerunner of China’s Democratic Revolution. Not far, almost around the corner, visit "Xintiandi-Shikumen". It is now a trendy cultural and entertainment center with 1920’s buildings, converted into international galleries, theme restaurants, boutiques, cafes and bars.Now some tips about places you can visit
"out" of the tourist track: "Xinhua Road" (old residential part of Shanghai) or "Hengshan Road", corner with "Jinguo Road" and the "Xujiahui Park".For one of the more adventurous sites and if you want to see something
"truly" Chinese: visit the "North West Shanghai Fish Market", an unique experience on the "Tong-Chuan Road" in the North-West, the top supplier "Fish Market" for Shanghai restaurants and catering. One thing is for sure, you won’t see a European face for miles around and you'll have the chance to see one of the biggest fish markets in China.Of course Shanghai has many other things of interest – museums, parks, monuments, antiques markets, temples, churches, etc, etc…
but you can see your "hotel concierge" or visit the Tourist Office or see the tourist magazines (free) as "That’s Shanghai" or "Quo".I just wanted to give the reader a premium set of information, so when you arrive in Shanghai you have an idea about this wonderful city and can avoid the tourist traps. Besides the
"River" trip, don’t take tourist tours, walk or take a taxi to your destination. The "hotel concierge & porter" can give you the address in Chinese for your "taxi driver" and then you can see and have the feeling of the city.Of course, this
"Gourmet Corner" could be very long, since Shanghai has over a thousand restaurants and some of them "rise & fall" over night.Among the best "traditional"
:All located in a nice garden square with the "Rui Jin Hotel" in Ruijin Er Road:
"Colours",
"Face",
"Hazara" &
"Lan Na Thai"
Other restaurants of interest:
"China Moon"
(Sichuan)"Lock’s" (Cantonese)
"Jade Garden" (Hong Kong)
"Yi Jian Chun" (West Hunan)
"Shanghai Grand Theatre Banquet Hall" (Shanghai)
"Tony G Restaurant" (Sichuan) And the "Best Sichuan" restaurant in Pudong:
"Chuanguo Yanyi"
Located at "Times Square Complex" on the 10th Floor
[Ask for Sophie – Food & Beverage Manager and the only person who speaks English. ]
For the restaurants, ask your hotel concierge for the address in Chinese & reservations
. *****************************************This
"Gourmet Corner" will be dedicated to my favorite "Hotel" & "Restaurant" in Shanghai:"The Shangri-La Pudong"
Shanghai has many hotels, (
100, 200 …) which are part of the International or Chinese chains, located in the downtown area or at Pudong.But my first choice goes, without any doubt, to the most
Traditional hotel -- with High Class, Best Service, Best Views, Best Staff, Best Rooms with a View, Best Restaurants -- in others words, a unique hotel!The 606-room Shangri-La Pudong
stands along the famous HuangPu River, overlooking Shanghai’s legendary riverfront, the Bund. The hotel has 28 floors, with the "Business Horizon Club" on the top floors. The Horizon Club offers you full of services included in your room price:*
Complimentary: American, Chinese, Continental Breakfast in the "Club Lounge" from 6:30 to 10:30 AM* Complimentary: cocktails, wines, beers, canapés, hors d’oeuvres (Chinese, Japanese, Continental) from 5:30 to 7:30 PM
* Complimentary: soft drinks, coffee & espresso, all day & night
* Complimentary pressing of your suit on arrival
* Express laundry service at regular charge
* Late check-out until 6:00 PM, subject to room availability
* Airline reconfirmation
* Free use and connection to Internet
* Facsimile & photocopy services
* Meeting rooms available for Club guests
* Hotel Limousine bookings (Airport pick-up or transfer)
[Great Service from & to Pudong & HonQuiao Airports for a very interesting price of 550 & 400 Yuan – one way]
The minimum room rate for a room with a
"Front Bund View" -- the only ones for the "Right Choice" -- starts at: US$ 180.00, with the top range around US$ 270.00Remember, for the price you have the best view of Shanghai and if you can’t sleep at night, you can always count the ships going up and down the river.
For a hotel of this class, the prices are very reasonable. If you compare with Paris, the normal room price at the Meridien Hotel in Montparnasse is around 180.00 Euros and the only view you have is the Montparnasse Train Station
.The Shangri-La Pudong has many bars & restaurants, including:
"Garden Café"
(5:30 to 1:00 AM)"Lobby Lounge" (6:30 to 1:00 AM)
- with live music on the evenings
"B.A.T.S."
(6:00 PM to 3:00 AM)[Western Restaurant & Disco] with "live bands"
– restaurant service closes at 1:00 AM
By Summer 2006, two new restaurants will have opened.
*****************************************My
"Restaurant Corner" will be dedicated to the Chinese restaurant of the hotel the "Fook Lam Moon".The Restaurant has a very "impressive menu" with a
choice of "27 different Appetizers" in a price range from 28 to 38 Yuan. I recommend:*
"Chilled Shrimps with mustard Sauce" > 38.00 Yuan*
"Chilled Salty Goose" > 38.00 Yu There is a choice of: "13 – SHARK’S FIN" Dishes [gourmet's special dish] in prices ranging from (420 Yuan P.P. to 2,680 Yuan. for 4 P.)*
Too difficult for specific recommendations - the choice must be yours. There is a choice of: "15 – ABALONE" Dishes [a Cantonese delicacy] From (680 Yuan to 15,000 Yuan)*
I can't recommend this dish – you need to like this specialty! There is a choice of: "13 – BIRD’S NEST" Dishes [gourmet dish] From (450 Yuan to 1,130 Yuan)*
Not everybody likes this dish! There is a choice of: "24 - SEAFOOD" Dishes [big choice]From (60 Yuan to *(Seasonal Price) There is a choice of: "17 – POULTRY" Dishes
From 60 Yuan to 180 Yuan.
I
recommend:*
"Chicken Fillet with Black Bean Sauce" > 60.00 Yuan There is a choice of: "6 – FROG" Dishes in prices ranging from (90 Yuan to 110 Yuan)I recommend:
*
"Deep Fried Frog’s Legs with Spicy Salt" > 90.00 Yuan There is a choice of: "14 – BEEF & PORK" Dishes in prices ranging from (50 Yuan to 600 Yuan)I recommend:
*
"Sliced Beef with XO Sauce" > 60.00 Yuan*
"Roasted Pork Cantonese Style" > 60.00 Yuan There is a choice of: "16 – VEGETABLES & SOUP" Dishes in prices ranging from (38 Yuan to 180 Yuan)I recommend:
*
"Sautéed Fresh Asparagus with Crab Roe" > 180.00 Yuan There is a choice of: "15 – RICE & NOODLE" DishesFrom (38 Yuan to 160 Yuan)
I recommend:
*
"Plain Rice" > 38.00 YuanThe restaurant has a nice colorful décor with good lighting and big Bay Windows overlooking the river & Shanghai Bund.
*
Be sure to reserve the nice round tables by the windows – for those tables, reservations are a MUST!The
"service is outstanding" and Ms. Freda Chen, the Maitre D, will take care of all of your questions. She will happily recommend to you the best dishes to your taste or make suggestions if you don’t dare to ask. *****************************************In conclusion:
If you need to choose a "Hotel" in Shanghai, don’t hesitate. The choice is simple!
Stay at the Shangri-La Pudong.
SHANGRI-LA PUDONG
33 Fu Cheng Lu Pudong
Shanghai
200120, China
Tel : (+86) - 21 6882 8888
Fax : (+86) – 21 6882 6888
Email :
Web site : www.shangri-la.com
For any information, price query, reservations, or if you are not happy with the reservations made by your "travel agent", the most important persons to know in the Hotel are:
Mr. Victor Ng > Director of Front Office Operations
[a gentlemen]
Mr. Ivor Fan > Chief Concierge
[anything you want to know]
Ms. Judy Leung > Horizon Club – Service Manager
[a smile]
You can always contact them on my behalf; and then you will have the best service you can get!
"Latest News"
On September 26th
, "Tower N°2" will be opening -- a brand new building, with 36 floors, adjacent at the back to the original hotel, but not at the edge of the riverbank, so the view will be less spectacular.Of course, there will still be all the new ultramodern commodities, you would expect in a top class hotel:
* The "Premium Rooms" with: separate shower & bath with TV, dressing room, two wash-basins, TV flat screens, etc.
* The "Horizon Club" will be located on the 27th to the 31st Floor.
New price range will be from: US$ 250.00 to US$ 360.00* The new tower will have a
"Top Class Restaurant" on the 36th Floor, with views over the city: the "JADE Restaurant", with two Grand Chefs from France: Eric Momméjac & Fabrice Canelle; both with a long outstanding "pedigrees" in Culinary Arts.* The new complex will have the
biggest "Ball Room" in Shanghai with a capacity of 2,000 people!Now when you are in Shanghai,
you won’t be the Lost Guy!
Freddy Santamaria "The Smooth Operator"
Paris, France - August 28, 2005
fredmarcom@aol.com
Copyright (c) 2005, Freddy Santamaria.
All rights reserved.