Spain & "El Rodeito"

... with Costa del Sol, Marbella, Puerto Banus, and the White Villages as well


by Freddy Santamaria

The Costa del Sol in Spain is the top tourist spot in Spain. Unfortunately, the place is the worst place to visit in summer. Millions of tourists from Europe invade the coast and it becomes the biggest tourist trap you dear to dream. It's no-go land!

All of that changes, if you visit the place in winter (average temp. 19 - 22C°), spring or early autumn. My preference is winter, especially in January. Where in others parts of Europe all is grey cold and rainy, in Marbella it's sunny, warm and calm – no tourists, no tour operators, no road congestion, no traffic jumps, the biggest concentration of "Golf Courses" in Europe, the hotels are not full, the good restaurants are open, and the "big winter sales" are on. In all the fashion shops, department stores and shopping malls, everything's a big bargain!

The best way to arrive to the Costa del Sol is by air. Malaga Airport is connected daily with the major European airports. At Malaga Airport, you can rent a car from the major operators or the local ones, and get fair prices "off season."

For the place to set-up your quarters, I recommend Marbella or Puerto Banus (the Spanish St. Tropez). (Forget Torremolinos or Fuengirola.)

The hotel choices in Marbella are vast. Among the main hotels I recommend:

# Gran Melia Don Pepe
Tel: +34 952 77 03 00 - Fax: +34 952 77 99 54

# El Fuerte
Tel: +34 952 86 15 00 - Fax: +34 82 44 11

(The hotel is downtown Marbella facing the beach.)

It's ideal to walk everywhere in town and visit the "casco antiguo" old town:

# Don Carlos
Tel: +34 952 83 11 40 - Fax: +34 952 83 34 29

# Le Meridien Los Monteros
Tel: +34 952 77 17 00 - Fax: +34 952 82 37 21

# Marbella Club
Tel: +34 952 82 22 11 - Fax: +34 952 82 98 84

# Puente Romano
Tel: +34 952 82 09 00 - Fax: +34 952 77 57 66

All the hotels are along the coast, with beaches, swimming pools, restaurants, bars, discos etc. And some hotels are next to the golf courses.

The best way is to start is at the Tourist Office at Malaga Airport for the complete list of hotels & golf courses. Or visit:
www.marbella.com

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In Marbella & Puerto Banus, restaurants, bars, and discos "open and close" by the minute (in a manner of speaking) – especially in summer. Today here, tomorrow gone with the wind!

My Gourmet Corner will be dedicated to "El Rodeito", a traditional Castillan, (wood fire oven), restaurant in business since 1988 (a record for the region). Originally, it was a "truck stop canteen" for 50 years on the road from Malaga to Algeciras (the door to Africa) and Cadiz on the Atlantic. The name comes from the surrounding mountains "El Rodeo" (nothing to do with Rodeo Drive in LA).

The restaurant's main attraction (beside the food) is: "Open 24/24 Hours." It never closes, which a rare privilege for a top class restaurant, especially in Spain where good restaurants have very defined rules on opening times and meal services.

As I indicated, the restaurant is "traditional Castillan cuisine." All the food is cooked in a bakery wooden fire closed oven, (50 years old, the oven has never been extinguished). So, all the dishes, breads, fish, meats, and so forth have a unique, great taste.

Portions are large, so I suggest, and it is recommended that you sample the array of starters. Ask for "Half Portions" and just like that, you have the opportunity to taste all the house specialties.

For the main dishes, if fish & meat is too much for you, you can share for two a fish and a meat dish, so your meal will be to your satisfaction.

Before you start your meal don't forget to have an Andalucian drink: (not exported – it can't travel) = "Manzanilla" from Jerez de la Frontera, with olives from Seville

Among the Traditional Castillan starters, I recommend:

# Chorizo de la olla (Casserole Spicy Sausage) - 8.20 euros
# Morcilla de Burgos
(Black Pudding (blood & rice) Sausage) - 8.80 euros
# Gambas al Ajillo (Prawns in Garlic) - 14.50 euros
# Las Jijas de la Abuela
(Sautéed Chopped Spicy Sausage) - 8.80 euros"a must"
# Mollejas de Cordero a la Plancha
(Grilled Lamb Sweetbreads) - 16.80 euros"need to try"
# Callos a la Riojana (Tripe Rioja Style) - 14.20 euros
# Manitas de Cordero a la Pastora
(Lamb's Trotters Shepherdess Style) - 13.90 euros
# Jamon Iberico "Bellota" (Iberian Cured Ham) - 19.20 euros
# Sopa Castellana (Castillan Soup) - 7.20 euros
# Gazpacho (Andalucian Cold Soup) - 7.50 euros

Shell Fish & Fish:

# Txangurro (Typical Vasc Country Shell Fish) - 47.90 euros
# Carabineros (Local Shell Fish) - 13.50 euros (Each)
# Langostinos de "Sanlucar" (Andalucian Port)
(Cray Fish)
- 12.50 euros (100 gr.) "the best in Spain"
# Gambas de "Huelva" (Andalucian Port)
(King Prawns) - (100 gr. at Market Price) "the top of the tops"
# Bacalao (Cod House Style) - 20.90 euros
# Bacalao al Pil Pil (Sizzling Cod with Garlic) - 20.90 euros (min. 2 pers.)
# Besugo a la Espalda (Grilled Sea Bream) - 21.80 euros
# Rape a la Cazuela (Monkfish Casserole) - 20.90 euros
# Chipirones en su Tinta (Squid Cooked in their Own Ink) - 20.90 euros

Meats & Poultry (all imported from Castilla Region) "the house specialty":

# Lechazo Asado
(Roasted Baby Lamb (for 2 pers.) - 45.80 euros "drink Gin after"
# Chuletillas de Lechazo
(Grilled Baby Lamb Chops) - 22.90 euros "very light"
# Toston Segoviano
(Roasted Piglet Segovia Style) - 22.90 euros"drink Gin after"
# Cuchifrito al Ajillo
(Sautéed Pork in Garlic Sauce) - 21.50 euros "original - to try"
# Chuleton de Buey (2 pers.)
(Grilled Bone Steak) - 36.50 euros/Kg. "a must"
# Grilled Entrecôte (Rib of Beef - 400 gm.) - 21.90 euros
# Chateubriand (2 pers.) - 47.80 euros
# Pollo al Ajillo
(Chicken in Garlic Sauce) - 15.50 euros "a traditional dish"
# Perdiz en Escabeche
(Marinated Partridge) - 19.80 euros "only in Spain"
# Pollo de Corral a la Cazuela (Farm Chicken Casserole) - 20.90 euros
# Duck Magret in Port Sauce with Risotto - 19.10 euros "for the snobbish"

Some Vegetables with your Meats:

# Ensalada de Pimientos Asados (Roasted Peppers Salad) - 9.20 euros
# Puerros (Dressed Leeks) - 9.20 euros
# Pisto a la Riojana (Rioja Ratatouille) - 13.60 euros
# Pastel de Puerros (Leek Pie) - 15.50 euros
# Berenjenas Rellenas (Stuffed Aubergines) - 13.60 euros
and of course:
# Ensalada de la Casa (House Salad) - 8.50 euros

Desserts:

# Arroz con Leche (Rice Pudding) - 7.80 euros
# Cuajada con Miel y Nueces
(Quark with Honey & Walnuts) - 6.90 euros
# Requeson con Miel y PiN ones
(Fresh Cheese with Honey & Pine Nuts) - 7.80 euros
# Leche Frita al Chocolate Caliente
(Fried Custard with Hot Chocolate) - 7.80 euros
# Manzanas Asadas al Armagnac
(Baked Apples with Sultanas in Armagnac) - 7.80 euros
# Peras al Vino Tinto
(Marinated Pears in Red Wine Sauce)
- 7.80 euros
# Queso de Oveja de Castilla
(Castillan Cured Sheep Cheese)
- 14.80 euros

And of course the Andalucian specialty:

# Tocinillos de Cielo
(Heavenly Piglets) (Bathed egg yolks)
- 7.80 euros

If after all of that, you are still hungry, you can always ask for the "Specials of the Day."

There is a great selection of Spanish Wines at fair prices(all regions & house wines).

Remember to finish your meal with the complement of the "House Drink" - Frozen Orujo.
(Just one or two, but no more!)

EL RODEITO
Hosts: Ricardo & Ana Mancho
Cook: Felix (for 17 years)
Carretera de Cadiz - Km. 173
Nueva Andalucia
Marbella
Tel: +34 952 81 56 99 & 952 81 08 61
Email: elrodeito@elrodeito.com

Remember you can eat 24/24H - Day & Night!

(For seating, my first choice goes to the old dining room next to the kitchen.)

If you like gambling; at 500 meters from the restaurant you have:

The Marbella Casino in the Hotel Andalucia Plaza in Nueva Andalucia with roulette, poker, Black Jack, and slot machines.

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Some Information about the Places of Interest to visit in the Region:

Malaga:

This is the native town of Pablo Picasso, and if you are interested in painting, visit the

Museo Picasso Malaga (2003) [work of three architects: Richard Gluckman (US) (-Whitney Museum NY & Andy Wharol Museum, in Pittsburgh) & two architects from Malaga; Isabel Camara and Rafael Martin] and the Museo Casa Natal de Picasso (Picasso's Home).

Visit also, in the hills of Malaga, the "Gibralfaro Castle" (14 C) with the "Parador" and

"La Alcazaba" (Archaeological Museum - 11 C Moorish Epoch).In down town, visit "The Malaga Cathedral".

For more information visit: www.malagaturismo.com

The White Villages (Los Pueblos Blancos):

No trip to the region will be complete with out the visit of "Los Pueblos Blancos," located around the mountains of Marbella & Serrania de Ronda. These are small towns and villages, all white, (hence the name) with Moorish influences. There are very narrow streets, (in some, better leave your car at the town entrance & walk), with typical white houses full of colorful flowers.

One day is needed to visit the most interesting destination – from Marbella to Ojen, Mijas, Monda, Coin, and follow to Tolox, Alozaina, El Burgo to Ronda. Visit "El Parador de Ronda" with great views of "El Puente Nuevo"(1751-1793, and 98 m. in height) and the old town.

From Ronda, follow the Serania de Ronda route (A369) to Algotocin, Gaucin & Casares, and then back to Marbella.

For more information visit: www.ronda.com

A Trip to the South West:

Following the "Carretera de Cadiz" or the "A7 - E15" motorway to the South, go to Tarifa (The Tip of the Iberian Peninsula) where the Mediterranean joints the Atlantic Ocean at the Gibraltar Strait.

Following the visit to Gibraltar (ex British military base) and Algeciras (the port to Africa) and , stop in Tarifa (Europe "Surfer's Paradise"), the old town, the beautiful beaches and continue to; Zahara de los Atunes (wild beaches), Barbate and; Vejer de la Frontera ("perhaps Spain's most spectacular village")

Squeezed between the Sierras and the sea, this hill town is a perfectly preserved example of what many Andalucian towns were like during five centuries of Islamic occupation. Declared a national monument in 1978, Vejer is a labyrinth of white washed houses & winding cobbled streets.

Set 200 meters above the surrounding countryside, the old town has a mass of historical monuments. The castle, turreted medieval walls, minaret of the old mosque, churches and convents are a blend of Moorish, visigothic and mudejar styles.

Vejer is an unspoiled town. It's romantic flower-filled courtyards and small plazas are uncorrupted by modern tourism. The town has a lively atmosphere where the locals are happy to welcome visitors, and small bars and restaurants make wandering through the historic quarter a real pleasure. Visit: www.vejer.com

From Vejer, go North to Medina Sidonia & Arcos de la Frontera. And complete your tour with the visit to Jerez de la Frontera, (the "Jerez" - Sherry World Town) to visit the "Jerez Bodegas" (Sherry Cellars). A must - But don't drink too much, you need to drive back - and the world famous horse riding school: "Real Escuela Andaluza de Arte Equestre" (Royal Andalucian School of Horse Riding).

After Jerez, go back to Marbella by the "Carretera A 381" (via Los Barrios and San Roque) to connect to the "A7 - E 15" motorway to Marbella.

As they say in Spain:

"Salud y Pesetas y lo demas todo son …"


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Freddy Santamaria "The Smooth Operator"
Paris, France - November 22, 2004

fredmarcom@aol.com


Copyright (c) 2004, Freddy Santamaria.
All rights reserved.