The Upper & the Super
Madrid, unfortunately is not any more a cheap city, restaurants are expensive and hotels even more, prices can be compared with Paris, Tokyo or Beijing. So at the end of this article, I will give you some tips for a nice hotel chain. The only thing not expensive in Madrid is "taxis" -- maybe the cheapest in Europe, so there's no need to take the metro or the bus. Just take a taxi and there are plenty, but of course nobody speaks English, so have your addresses in writing -- much easier if you don’t speak Spanish. Madrid has many districts, the most popular is the "Plaza Mayor"(1620). This large rectangular, stoned paved plaza with its ground floor arcades, underwent its last remodeling in 1853.The most striking building in the plaza is the "Casa de la Panaderia" (Bakery House) with its colorful fresco-adorned façade. On the opposite side is the "Casa de la Carniceria" (Butcher House), and in the center is the Equestrian Statue of Felipe III, who ordered the construction of the Plaza.In the Plaza you will have a large choice of restaurants, taverns & pubs but you are better off to avoid them since the majority of them are tourist traps.In the surrounding streets of "Cava Baja", "Cava Alta", "Toledo" and the "Plaza de San Miguel" with its typical market, "Calle de Cuchilleros" "Plaza de la Puerta Cerrada" and the "Cava de San Miguel". Old shops and restaurants evoke all the flavor of "Old Madrid", those streets are bustling with "tascas" (pubs) and "mesones" (old style taverns).Among the best try: "El Tempranillo" (Cava Baja N° 38),"Lamiak" N° 42, "La Carpanta" (Calamendro 22), "Delic" (Costanilla de San Andres N° 14) and, "El Viajero" (Plaza de la Cebada N° 11). Amd in the square don’t forget to visit, one of the best markets in Madrid; "Mercado de la Cebada"The most interesting shop to visit is in "Calle Toledo N° 18", Casa Hernanz (founded in 1860), a cord-making factory shop, unique in Madrid, where you can find anything related to cord trade: hempen sandals, shoes, baskets, boxes, etc, etc… all hand made.Next door, on the corner, you have a "Shoes Shop" where you can find maybe the cheapest pair of shoes you can buy in Madrid, extra quality leather, but they don't take "credit cards" only cash.Other interesting districts to visit near by are: "Huertas /Lavapies", "Puerta de Toledo" and on the north side of Puerta del Sol (Madrid's Center) the "Barrio de Malasaña", & "Chueca". And for the chic part of Madrid, the "Barrio de Salamanca".Since there are hundreds of places of interest to see & visit: restaurants, bars, pubs, design boutiques, shops, libraries, the best way is to go to: www.eldibuk.com and you will have all the info (Spanish & English) you need about each "Barrio" (district), with all the lists of the most interesting places, including the addresses and the maps for the locations.If you are looking for a big "Department Store", the best is: "El Corte Ingles" located on the main Madrid avenue "Paseo de la Castellana".******************************* Today’s Gourmet Corner introduces you to two interesting Madrid restaurants: The first on the "Upper" scale, with a rating of 7 out of 10 by "El Pais", Madrid's daily newspaper: "CHANTARELLA". It opened in 2003 and is now becoming one of the best restaurants in the city at very reasonable prices.Three partners, the brothers Alvaro & Enrique Diaz, own the restaurant (the cooks) following the cooking trends of Santi Santamaria (one of the top cooks in Spain) and Mrs. Maria José Monterrubio, the Restaurant Director. To enjoy this restaurant, your best bet will be the "Menu Degustacion" or "sampling menu" with the choice of (Six) half portions of a combination of the fish & meat dishes and (Two) desserts for a fixed price of 50.00 EurosBefore your main menu, don’t forget to order some "Tapas Para Picar" or appetizers (10 to 12 Euros) # "Chuletitas de Conejo con Ali-Oli de Azafran" *Special, Unique!(Grilled Rabbit "Mini-Ribs" with Saffron Sauce) # "Parrillada de Vesduras Frescas" (Grilled Plate of Fresh Vegetables) # "Anchoas de Santoña" *Best in Spain! (Anchovy from Santoña) # "Croquetas de Jabugo con Salmonejo" (No Translation, Just Try !) On the choice of your "Six" half portions dishes, I will recommend: # "Pisto con Huevo, Crujiente de Bacon y Aceite de Trufa" This selection is just a recommendation; you have another eleven (11) other dishes to choose from. For once, I have not translated the dishes into English, so your eating adventure can be more interesting. Anyway, the English translation would be too complicated to explain and wouldn't give any more value to this excellent New Spanish cuisine, "just try!" Among the "Dessert" choices, I will recommend: # "Cuajada con Miel" & # "Torrija con Helado de Cafe con Leche"The wine selection is made up of a good selection of Spanish wines: Among the Reds, try the "Viñas Viejas del Bierzo" at only 19.00 Euros,or the "Rosado Gran Feudo Navarra Chevite Bodegas". Among the Whites, try the "Torres" on the dry side. There is excellent coffee, from Colombia, and one of the best cappuccinos for a Madrid restaurant. And of course at the end of your meal, don’t forget to ask for "Un Orujo de la Casa"... Maria José will be delighted to serve you one in a very nicely designed goblet.The restaurant has 14 tables and can serve up to 50 people. For business meetings you have a private room serving six persons max. The restaurant is closed on Saturday mid-day & Sundays.CHANTARELLA The second restuarant on the "Super" scale is a great fish, shellfish & "Paella" Restaurant located in the North of Plaza de Castilla (a Madrid landmark) in the Paseo de la Castellana - not exactly on the tourist track, but full every day with "madrileños" (Madrid natives) who know what to eat. "Casa Nemesio" opened in 2004 and by reputation it is now becoming the place to visit to have a nice fish or shellfish meal.The restaurant has two floors with a marine decor. The tables are well separated, but the best are in the corners, so you can have a nice view of the rest of the restaurant, can can also the warm atmosphere and the colorful and sometimes loud conversations. In the winter months, the best way to start your meal is to share with your party a "Centollo or Centolla" (Spider Crab) from the fiords of "Galicia Region" in the North West of Spain (the Spanish Bretagne). The price goes by Kilogram, & and Kilo is 65.00 EurosOn the appetizers side: # "Coquinas Plancha" > 14,75 Euros # "Almejas a la Marinera" 22.40 E. (Clams in a Seamanlike Recipe) # "Chipirones Plancha al Ajillo" 15.50 E. (Garlic Gilled Cuttle-Fish) # " Pulpo a Feira" 16.80 E. (Octopus Galicia Style) * You most try! # "Angulas del Nalon" 85.00 E (Elvers) * Unique – very expensive # "Cigalas de Santa Pola y Marin" 100 gr. 12 & 14.00 E. (Cray Fish ) # "Salmonetitos Fritos" > 17.00 E. (Fried Small Red Mullets) # "Percebe Gallego" 250 gr. > 50.00 E. (Goose Barnacles) * To try! And don’t forget: # "Verduras a la Plancha" > 12.00 E. # Paellas, Arroces y Fideos: Prices per Person - Min. Two Persons (Rice Specials & Spanish Spaghetti) # "Arroz a Banda"- # "Arroz con Verduras"- # "Arroz Negro" # "Arroz de Huerta y Mar" - # "Fideos Negros con Sepia" # "Fideua" - # "Arroz Caldoso con Bogavante del Cantabrico" The prices range from 16.00 to 23.40 Euros per Person. Fish Dishes: Everything from the "Fish Market of the Day": If you like something different try the: "Calamar a la Plancha" at 16.50 Euros (Whole Squid Grilled) If you like meat, they have only 5 dishes -- or don’t go! For Desserts - See the Daily Menu CASA NEMESIO Paseo de la Castellana N° 260 Madrid Tel: +34 913 23 84 10 ******************************* As I said at the beginning of the article that hotels in Madrid are expensive, but the "Gourmet Corner" recommends a Spanish Business Hotel Chain, located on the North side of Madrid near the Plaza de Castilla (remember a Madrid Landmark), and within walking distance of the Casa Nemesio (Fish Restaurant).FOXA 25 - SUITES Agustin de Foxa 32 28036 Madrid Tel: +34 917 33 10 60 Fax: +34 913 14 11 65 My preference is for FOXA 25. The Suites are bigger and have Good Service. If you make a reservation by phone or fax, address your request to the attention of: Juan Morales at Reception. He speaks good English and has been there for more than 15 years Prices from: 137.00 to 150.00 Euros Very good prices for Madrid, where the average price range for a nice "Business Hotel" is around: 180 to 245 Euros Getting Around: Madrid has many interesting sites to visit, and the list can be too extensive to be published here. Nevertheless, don’t forget to visit: Plaza de Cibeles ,Palacio de Comunicaciones (Post Office) Palacio Real & La Almudena Cathedral, Museo del Prado, Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, Centro de Arte Reina Sofia, Gran Via, Plaza de España, Salamanca District, Puente de Segovia & Manzanares River, Parque del Retiro, & Parque Casa de Campo … On the Madrid outskirts don’t miss: El Escorial, All these locations can be reached by "Public Transport" ******************************* If you have the crazy idea to go visit Spain from France by car in winter , (as I did), in route to Madrid, make a stop in Biarritz, (at the border) the city from the era of Napoleon III, Eugenia de Montijo & Victor HugoIt is a place with nice beaches, golf courses, hotels, palaces, etc. … But, there is a problem in winter -- after 10:00 PM, nothing is open for dinner or super; Well, only One! "Brasserie Pub Le Victoria" (like Victoria Station in London) is a nice, charming place, open till Midnight or 1:00 AM, where you can find nice regional dishes from "Pays Basque". Dishes like:"Agneau de Lait Roti a la Fleur de Thym" (Roast Baby Lamb from the Pyrenees) or the excellent There's a Great Wine Cellar: BRASSERIE LE VICTORIA 2, Avenue de la Reine Victoria Tel: +33 (0)5 59 24 07 27 BIARRITZ
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