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By Fred Santamaria
Interestingly, Aurillac is the town often referenced in the "TV Weather Report" in France as the coolest or the hottest town in winter or summer, respectively.Aurillac is the Capital of the Cantal Province, in the South of the "Auvergne" Region (the volcanic region in France). It is 547 Km. south of Paris, 631 meters above sea level, and has 33,000 inhabitants and a nice river in the middle of town – "La Jordanne.""Downtown" is very old, with houses from the XI, XII & XIII century. Many "Musketeer" films have been filmed on location in Aurillac, and you can feel the historic atmosphere when you walk around the small streets and narrow alleys. Since normally cars are not allowed, you can easily imagine yourself a Musketeer from another century.The most important sight in Aurillac is the "Volcano Museum." "Le Muséum des Volcans" is located on a hill with views over the town and the surrounding valleys and mountains. If you go, you will quickly learn that in the "Auvergne" region are located the largest number of volcanos in Europe: museum.volcans@wanadoo.frThere are many nearby castles in the surroundings of Aurillac: Château de Pesteils in Polminhac : (XV & XVII century)On the route RN 122 – in the direction of Vic-sur-Cere www.chateau-pesteils-cantal.com Château de Conros in Arpajon sur Cère: (XII century)On the route RN 122 – in the direction of Maurs www.chateau-conros.com Château de Sedaiges in Marmanhac: (XVIII )On the route RD 922 – in the direction of Mauriac www.chateausedaiges.com Château de Messilhac in Raulhac (XI, XVI & XVIII century) The three best "scenic-tourist" roads to visit by car are: # South [total 118 Km.]Aurillac > Entraygues > Conques > Aurillac # West [total 223 Km.]Aurillac > Saint Flour > Garabit > Chaudes-Aigues > Aurillac # North [total 113 Km.]Aurillac > Puy-Mary (following the Jordanne River Valley) > Salers (one of the most beautiful "medieval" villages in France and the producer of the best French beef meat with the "Salers Cows") > and continue to Tournemire and back to Aurillac. Visit: Aurillac Tourist Office > www.iaurillac.com********************************* Today’s "Gourmet Corner" of course is dedicated to Aurillac, a town with many small "Brasseries", cheese bars, wine bars, pubs, and cafes.Aurillac – the region and the inhabitants – are known to be hearty eaters, so the food is plain and hearty with the specialty. Not to be missed are the "Salers Beef" (the best in France), but to be honest there are only two restaurants that deserve mention and are recommended for the gourmet. "LA REINE MARGOT" is the most traditional restaurant in Aurillac, with a "red boudoir décor" in the smoking section. You will think you are in another century, but the service is gentle and the food is great, copious and with a good ratio of quality to price.The best way is to sample the "Menu Reine Margot" for 24.00 Euros – a very reasonable price for a "Starter, Main, Cheese & Dessert"For Starters I recommend: # Cuisses de Cailles Confites Tièdes, flan d’épinards, coulis tomates > Preserve of Quail Legs, Spinach Baled Custard, Tomatoes Sauce # Salade Chou Farci (Silver Price 2004) et Noix Concassées > Stuffed Cabbage Salad with Walnuts # Tranche de Tête de Veau Tiède, Sauce Gibriche > (Sorry there's no translation, just try it!) For the Main Courses: # Emincé de Magret de Canard Poêlé, Choux, Jus Crémé Girolles > Sautéed Duck Magret with Wild Mushrooms # Pavé de Foie de Veau Poêlé, Polenta Aillé, Jus de Sauge > Sautéed Veal Leaver Slab, Polenta Garlic Sage Sauce (Superb) # Pavé de Boeuf (Salers) Poêlé, Gratin Dauphinois > Slab of Salers Beef (The Best in France) with Potatoes Gratin Don’t forget to sample the "Auvergne" Cheese Plate! For Desserts: You have the choice of Six, but the best is:(Again, no translation) # Feuilleté de Banananes Caramélisées, Crème, Sauce Lait Coco The Restaurant also has a "Menu Gastronomique" at: 35.00 Euros. And if you are not too hungry, the "A la Carte Menu" give you the choice of the same dishes:From 6.00 to 13.50 Euros for the Starters From 8.00 to 18.50 Euros for the Main Dishes And 4.00 to 5.50 Euros for Cheese Plate & Desserts As you can see, the prices are far from those in Paris and the quality of the food is "Top Class." There is a good selection of French and Local wines from 20.00 Euros. Unfortunately, people from Auvergne are very "Cost Conscious," so if you want an after dinner drink, you'll need to pay for it.LA REINE MARGOT Of course, if you don’t like Hearty French Food, you can always go to the Restaurant across the street, " La Cappadoce" for Turkish food.Or, you can go to the second fine restaurant selection in Aurillac: "LE POMMIER D’AMOUR" , located in the best Hotel in Aurillac, the Hotel Saint Pierre, facing the "Jordanne" River and the nicest avenue in town. The restaurant is modern, bright and warm.As is the tradition in Auvergne, the restaurant also has "Three Menus" for you to choose from:# Menu Pommier: for only: 15.50 Euros # Menu Plaisir: > Starter + Main + Cheese or Dessert; at 21.00 Euros # Menu Gourmand: > Two Starters + Main + Cheese Plate + Dessert; at 35.00 Euros My recommendation the "A la Carte Menu" with a choice of:- Starters at 7.00 Euros - Main Dishes at 13.00 Euros - Cheese Plate at 5.50 Euros and - Desserts at 6.00 Euros My selection would be: # Starters: "Carpaccio de Boeuf Salers, Eclats de Tuiles au Cantal" # Main: "Pavé de Rumsteack de Salers à la Moutarde Violette" # Dessert: "Soufflé Glacé au Litchi et à la Mangue Epicée" There is a good selection of "local wines" at very attractive prices. LE POMMIER D’AMOUR For a good selection of after dinner drinks at very reasonable prices, you can move to the "Méphisto Bar" just across the hall, where an ever-changing exhibition of "paintings or photos" changes every two months.Right now, for the months of April and May, a Photo Exhibition (with 30 portraits) about the new fashion trend in Japan, "The Lolitas of Tokyo", is on display by Freddy SantamariaThe Hotel in Aurillac: HOTEL SAINT PIERRE www.ac-hotel.com The hotel has a 1960 decor have rooms at appropriate prices from: > 50.00 to 95.00 Euros and two Suites at 105.00 Euros > Breakfast at only: 8.00 Euros (Room or Restaurant) Personally, I prefer the ones, on the second floor (avoid the back views) facing the " Promenade du Gravier" and "La Jordanne" River.********************************* In Aurillac the two best souvenirs to buy are: The Hand Made Umbrellas (Aurillac is the "umbrella capital" of Europe!) Visit: > "L’Ondée"27, Rue Victor Hugo – Tel: +33 4 71 48 29 53 > "Piganiol" 28, Rue des Forgerons – Tel: + 33 4 71 43 05 51 > "Cadres Décors" 4, Rue des Forgerons – Tel: +33 4 71 48 59 01 --- With the original "Carré" (Square) Umbrella by Gérard Delos. It can be "Custom Made" (One Unit) with your photo, etc. The other boutique you must visit is: 14, Rue Victor Hugo – Tel: +33 4 71 63 67 91 Since 1908, the best "non industrial" producer of local alcohols has been: "The Gentiane Spirit" and the "Marc d’Auvergne"********************************* So when you go to Aurillac, don’t forget to buy an umbrella! ********************************* Freddy Santamaria "The Smooth Operator"
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